What happens when a Filipino pirate falls in love with an Indonesian woman? He settles down and starts a family. Ari looks as if he still can’t believe that it really happened. However, the proud look on his grandson’s face speaks volumes. He tells us the story of his life with an incredulous but proud laugh. In his old life, such an event was rather unthinkable. Tough men on dangerous smuggling routes, how can you imagine living as a good fisherman in an Indonesian village? It’s a good story, because he seems happy and content and sells us his catch. We have already met many people in Indonesia. Every encounter was characterised by great openness and a curious interest in our lives. This was also the case during our last visit ashore.
Good catch, good life
The people on the islands off the Indonesian west coast of Borneo are doing well. They still live from fishing, which they sell ,freshly caught, to Chinese „wholesalers“. Next to our boat is a solid steel boat from Hong Kong. All day long, one local fishing boat after another docks at the Chinese fishing boat to deliver their goods. It is transported alive to its destination, where it is sold for a lot more. Sashimi is what is demanded, and Indonesia is still supplying… Because the huge nets, which we almost drove into with its tightly meshed loops, where nothing can escape from, ensure a supply. Fishing with dynamite is banned, but we were often notice it while diving when the sound wave of an explosion rides through the water. Destroyed coral reefs also speak volumes.
But the local fishermen are getting by for now. They drive seaworthy boats, can build houses on land, feed their families and buy scooters.
Breakfast with whale sharks
We are very lucky to encounter three large whale sharks once again. These huge animals, which are around 12 metres tall, are incredibly curious and open their wide mouths to take in the next wave of water, which hopefully contains lots of small fish and crustaceans. When swimming with them, they come so close that you are occasionally touched by a tail fin.
Indonesia was a fantastic experience if you exclude the rubbish and Bali. We had the best diving experiences on the whole trip, and it was not short of underwater adventures. If I had to say which part I particularly enjoyed, I would mention the Spice Islands of Banda, with their charm and relatively unspoilt nature.
Diving in Raja Ampat is a „once in a lifetime“ experience for every diver and the dive sites in Komodo are also worth a visit. The experiences in Manado and the surrounding area are just as unforgettable as the wedding dance in Alors. The visit to Toraja in Sulawesi with the experience of the funeral ceremony was also an unforgettable highlight. Unfortunately, we had to skip Halmahera, which would have meant that the east of this large country would have been completely travelled, but as already mentioned, not everything is possible. Finally, we experienced real fireworks show, a super sunset that set the sky on fire and took our breath away. After 639 sunsets since the start of our trip, that’s saying something.
Travelling on the road of pirates
On the way to Malaysia, we first have to clear customs in Tanaka. This turns out to be more difficult than expected. Afterwards we learn that we are the first private boat with a European flag to clear out here. Most private boats, of which there are very few here, continue on from Bali towards Java and Singapore. We, on the other hand, want to go to the north of Borneo, to Kota Kinabalu.
We pass the southern islands of the Philippines, which have a rather mixed reputation. At night, we drive with minimal lighting and locked doors. The sea route between Malaysia and the Philippines is said to still be plagued by Filipino pirates. A fairy tale? After all, we have already met a former pirate, so we believe it and take precautions. The strait between the two countries has only been open to private shipping for a year and is monitored by Malaysian drones.
When we arrive in Sandakan, in North Borneo, we are warmly welcomed by our agency. We are the first private boat to arrive at the marina in Sandakan. The immigration formalities are surprisingly pleasant and uncomplicated, the people are polite and professional. We are in a different world.
On the way along the coast, we first come to Turtle Island, a nature reserve for sea turtles. They come to the beach to lay their eggs, where they dig huge holes and lay hundreds of eggs in one night. So that the babies have a chance to survive. They are hidden in a „hatchery“ in the sand from their natural enemies and released on the beach after hatching. They eagerly head for the water. They are fast, a little unsteady on their feet, but seem to know exactly where they want to go and where they belong. We have already seen many healthy turtles under water. The rescue measures seem to be working.
